TRIMMING TECHNIQUES
Add Pizzazz and Profit With Tassels and Trims


By Margie Nance

Looking for a way to earn more profit and distinguish your window fashions from the rest? Adding something as simple as trim can help set your designs apart—and with the wide variety of styles, lengths and price ranges to choose from, you have plenty of options.

Some trims are created to be sewn inside the seam, while others have beautiful flat bands of woven yarns that are designed to be exposed and top applied. Let’s take a look at a few of the more popular styles of trim and how best to use them.

Brush Fringe
As one of the most popular “sewn-in” trims, the majority of brush fringes are made to be inserted between two pieces of fabric, with the strands of yarn exposed. However, some brush fringes can be top-applied and will have a flat decorative band woven in. Sewn across the bottom of the fringe, in most cases, is a nylon thread that holds the yarns in place while on the bolt, helping to keep the fringe flat while sewing. Be sure to remove this thread and fluff up the yarns before delivering to the client.

Brush fringe is great for the bottom of valances, down the leading edge of panels and on pillows. If you purchase a very thin brush fringe, try layering two rows. You can even layer two different colors and create a very different fringe look.

Cord With Lip
Another popular “sewn-in” trim is the cord with lip—designed to be inserted between two pieces of fabric. The purpose of the lip is to allow the cord to be sewn down. While the workroom will try to hide the lip in the seam, some lips are nearly impossible to hide unless they are sewn on the cord itself. This makes the cord appear smaller but is the only way to keep it hidden.

When shopping for a cord with lip, test the cord for any warping—this happens when the lip is being applied at the factory and the cord twists while the lip is being sewn. To test the cord, lay a foot or two of the cord down on a flat surface and look for any major twisting of the lip. If you can’t straighten it out, the workroom will have a difficult time keeping the valance or the panel straight after it’s applied. There may be times when the cord is nearly impossible to sew in, and in that case, the workroom can remove the lip and apply the cord by hand stitching. But be warned—this is a very tedious process and the workroom will charge accordingly.

Tassel Trim
Tassel trim is usually top applied, but it can also be inserted between two layers of fabric. Trim can be attached in a variety of ways, including hand stitching, machine stitching, iron-on tapes (such as Döfix or Kwik-affix) or by using an adhesive specially made for fabrics (such as Fringe Adhesive by Rowley Company).

Tassel trim is one of the easiest trims to apply after a treatment has already been made, so it’s a great option if your treatment needs a little something extra. Setting the trim higher than the bottom edge of a valance or a few inches in from the leading edge of a drapery panel will help protect the yarns from sun damage, extending the life of the trim.

Beaded Trim
Beaded trim was known in my workroom as “Beauty and the Beast.” I always loved the look of beaded or crystal trim but would cringe each time I was asked to sew it onto a treatment. Beaded trim is the most delicate type of trim and often the beads are literally hanging on by a thread. The biggest challenge was to insert the trim while hiding the small band or ribbon the beads hang from. There is a very small distance between these two parts of the trim.

A great look for this trim that often solves the problem of hiding the band is to sew micro cording covered in self fabric or contrast over the band to hide it on the front side of the treatment. Clear or translucent beads look wonderful hanging off the edge of a valance as they catch the sunlight coming through the window.

Margie Nance is the owner of the Custom Home Furnishings Academy in Charlotte, N.C. Reach her at margie@chfschool.com.

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