To say that France is important to the world of interior design and decorative arts is a bit of an understatement. With a long history of artistic and cultural developments, France is an essential design destination. One particular area in France is legendary for its contributions to the fields of textiles, design, and interiors—the east-central city of Lyon. Known as the silk capital of the world, it’s no surprise that this city is home to Lyon Manufacture Passementerie (LMP), one of the last remaining custom trimmings companies in France that still follows old-world design processes.

Founded in 1870, LMP is distinguished by its total commitment to using traditional artisan techniques to produce its designs. LMP’s archives include thousands of Jacquard punch cards and samples from its many years in the trimmings business. “We have over 165 years of archives,” says Rodolphe Lavenir, current manager of LMP and the great-grandson of the company’s founder. “We’re committed to perpetuating the traditions from generation to generation.”

Preserving old-world techniques

LMP makes its passementerie using a variety of traditional techniques including weaving on vintage Jacquard looms, a classic process for producing trimmings that is no longer common in the industry. Invented in 1801, a Jacquard loom creates intricate designs via holes punched in pasteboard. Each row on a “punch card” corresponds to one row of the design. Multiple rows of holes are punched on each card and the many cards that comprise a given design are strung together in order. Threading a Jaquard loom by hand is very time-intensive and one of the many features that sets LMP apart from larger, more mechanized trimmings companies. LMP’s work also relies on highly skilled hand-work by artisans specially trained in their craft. Lavenir points out the fact that this specialized knowledge is not taught in any schools in France; apprentices spend years learning the varied techniques that go into the making of passementerie. “The only way to learn is directly in the company,” he says. “You have to see and practice because you cannot learn it at school; there is no other way to learn all the technical aspects and hand skills.” Another distinguishing factor of the artisans at LMP is their love of the art of passementerie: “You have to have a very inquiring mind and be curious about everything if you want to learn and progress [as an artisan], but first of all, you need to have a passion for trimmings,” says Lavenir.

Couture Passementerie: A Dying Art?

When it comes to some clients, however, the emphasis is on custom design and superior quality, not low prices. In these cases, being one of the few custom trimmings companies left in France has its benefits. LMP has designed custom passementerie for a diverse client list. Recent projects have included custom designs for the Opéra Garnier and the set for the recent film Marie Antoinette. Of course, these clients had the budgets to pay for customized work—a luxury that is out of the price range of many potential clients. “Ninety- five percent of our production is hand-made, which it makes it very expensive,” says Lavenir.

Despite France’s reputation as a cultural mecca, many of the old-world artisan traditions that define France are struggling as a result of automation and global competition. “In France, there are only four true trimmings manufacturers left,” says Lavenir (he declines to name the other three). “Of these four there are only two—ours and one other—that are able to do customization.” And although this small number means LMP has less competition for extremely high-end custom trimmings projects, the dwindling numbers point to a larger industry trend that pushes for the low production costs of mass production.

However, even though LMP is being priced out of markets that are purely profit driven, there are certain cultural trends that support the LMP mission. For example, there is a growing craft movement that values the intricate hand work and tradition associated with artisan skills. One of the foundations of this movement supports the notion that traditional processes and history are crucial to determining the value of the finished product. In other words, a tassel that was stitched by hand in a small, family-owned French workroom takes on more worth than a similar-looking tassel that was mass-produced in a factory halfway around the world from the person who created the design.

Process, tradition, and high-quality materials are valued more than low prices. Therefore, although trimmings from a company like LMP are quite expensive, the singular care that is taken in production is seen as an integral part of the value and makes the custom products a worthy investment. So what does this mean for the average American designer? It is important to call attention to the ways in which LMP embodies certain consumer trends. From the history of textiles and design in Lyon to the old-world production processes to the fact that a skilled artisan personally creates each design—LMP offers a complete design experience

for the consumer. This is a new kind of luxury that more consumers are coming to value: luxury that is based on unique experiences and knowledge of the means of production. When asked what differentiates LMP from other trimmings companies, Lanvier brings up the desire for exclusive, artisanmade products: “Our customers are looking for quality—not just a price.”

Delivering the Best of the Best

Lyon Manufacture Passementerie is the kind of hidden gem that appeals to consumers who are weary of mass-produced design—consumers who want a special design experience that is impressive and tells a story. With the rise of the DIY movement it is crucial for designers to present clients with resources that are not easily accessed by the general public. Companies like LMP are incredible resources for clients who have it all and want something unique from a hard-to-find source. In other words, for the client who appreciates the complexity of the process and the time it takes to craft trimmings in the old-world style, custom passementerie could be just the detail that takes their interiors to the next level.